Concrete FAQ: Answers for Connecticut homeowners and property managers

Four inches is the minimum for passenger cars. We pour 5 inches as standard and 6 inches at the apron and anywhere heavy trucks go, like oil deliveries or a box truck. The base matters as much as the thickness: we put down 6–8 inches of compacted processed gravel.

Walk on it the next day. Park cars on it after about seven days. Keep oil trucks, box trucks and dumpsters off for about a month, while the concrete gets close to full strength.

Sealed concrete can be slick when wet, which is why we add slip-resistant grit to the sealer on pool decks, steps and walks. Textured patterns and thinner sealer coats help too.

The slab lasts decades on a proper base with air-entrained concrete. The look depends on the sealer, which needs renewing every two to three years.

Four inches over 4–6 inches of compacted gravel for a standard patio. Under a hot tub, outdoor kitchen or masonry fireplace we thicken it to 5–6 inches or pour a separate pad.

Usually not for a patio at ground level, but zoning rules on setbacks and lot coverage still apply in some towns. Roofs, pergolas, electrical and gas lines need permits. We check your town's rules first.

It depends on the town. State law lets towns put snow-and-ice liability on the abutting owner (CGS §7-163a), and many town ordinances also make owners responsible for repairs. Your town's public works or engineering office can tell you the local rule; if you've received a notice, we can price the work from it.

Almost always. The walk is in the town right-of-way, so towns typically require a permit and may specify thickness, joint spacing and slope. We handle the application.

Longer stair runs typically fall in our planning range of $500–$1,100 / step. A front stoop with a landing and three or four risers usually runs $4,500–$9,500, including demo. Height, width, railing work and access set the final number.

Repair if the steps are solid, still tight to the house, and the damage is on the surface: scaled treads or broken nosings. Replace if they've pulled away from the house, tipped toward it, or cracked through.

Walls over 4 feet, measured from the bottom of the footing to the top, or walls holding up a driveway, slope or structure, need a permit and generally an engineered design. Shorter walls usually don't, though zoning setbacks and wetlands rules can still apply.

Almost always water. Without drainage stone and a pipe behind the wall, saturated soil and ice push it over time. Undersized walls and poor bases are the other usual suspects.

Resurface if the deck is structurally sound: cracks are hairline and nothing has heaved or sunk. Replace if sections have moved, cracks are wide, or the deck pitches toward the pool.

Texture and grit. A knockdown or broom finish grips well, and any sealer we put down gets a slip-resistant additive.

At least 42 inches below finished grade, the frost depth in the Connecticut State Building Code. That applies to house foundations, additions, garages and the footings for decks and porches.

Thin vertical cracks in poured walls are common and usually come from shrinkage. They matter if they leak. Horizontal cracks, cracks wider at one end, stair-step cracks in block, or cracks that keep growing suggest movement; have a structural engineer look.

Yes, if the concrete under the scaling is sound. We grind off loose material and apply a cement-based resurfacer. If scaling is deep, or the slab is cracked and moving, replacement is the better buy.

When the slab is level and solid, yes: it costs a fraction of replacement and gives you a new wearing surface. Over a slab that's cracked through or settling, the overlay cracks with it.

Polyurethane foam uses smaller holes, weighs less, so it doesn't load weak soil, and cures fast, but costs more per pound. Slurry costs less on large voids. We use whichever fits the slab and the soil.

Years, if the cause is fixed. Lifting without extending a downspout or sealing the joints just resets the clock.

Yes, and it usually saves money: one mobilization, one round of permits, and concrete ordered together.

Water and safety. Foundation leaks, grading toward the house, trip hazards and broken steps first; decorative work after.

Yes. We bid from drawings, provide submittals and work to your schedule for footings, foundations, slabs and site concrete.

Where the site allows it, yes. We phase work to keep entrances open and schedule around tenants and peak hours.